Gulmarg

A ski town in winter and a high green meadow in summer, with one of the highest cable cars in the world running up to Apharwat Peak.

Gulmarg is about two hours by road from Srinagar and changes completely with the season. From December to March it is Kashmir's ski town, with deep snow and slopes that bring in skiers from all over. From April to September the snow pulls back to the peaks and the bowl turns into a wide green meadow ringed by pine forest.

The Gulmarg Gondola is why most people come. Phase I goes up to Kongdoori, and Phase II carries on to Apharwat Peak at 3,979 m, where there is snow for much of the year. Phase II is often stopped for wind, so take the earliest slot you can get and buy tickets online a few days ahead in peak season.

Most travellers do Gulmarg as a day trip from Srinagar, which is enough for the gondola and a walk around the meadow. Stay a night if you are skiing or want to see the place quiet in the evening once the day-trippers have gone. Pony rides to Strawberry Valley are pleasant, but agree the route and the rate before you set off.

In summer the Gulmarg golf course, one of the highest green golf courses in the world, is open to visitors. In winter, bring proper boots or rent them at the base; Apharwat is far colder than Srinagar.