A season-by-season packing list that assumes you would rather not carry a suitcase of things you never open.

Kashmir sits between 1,500 and 4,000 m depending on where you go, and a single day can move fifteen degrees. Pack for layers, not for a temperature.

All year round

Comfortable walking shoes with grip - much of what you will do is on uneven ground. A light windproof jacket. Sunscreen and sunglasses, because altitude makes the sun far stronger than it feels. A refillable water bottle. Any personal medication, as pharmacies outside Srinagar are limited.

Summer, June to August

Cottons for the day and one fleece for evenings in Gulmarg and Pahalgam, which drop to 10 C after dark even in July. A light rain shell - afternoon showers are common.

Winter, December to February

A properly insulated jacket, thermals, waterproof boots, gloves, a wool cap and thick socks. If you are skiing at Gulmarg, ski clothing can be rented locally and is not worth carrying.

For the Great Lakes trek

Broken-in trekking shoes, a 50 to 60 litre backpack, a rain poncho, a headlamp, quick-dry layers and a water purification method. We supply tents, sleeping bags and mats.

Documents

Carry a government photo ID for every traveller - it is checked at hotel and houseboat check-in and at some highway posts. Foreign nationals should carry passport and visa copies.

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