Six days, five nights: Srinagar and Dal Lake, day trips to Sonmarg and Gulmarg, a night in Pahalgam and your last night on a Dal Lake houseboat.

This is the trip most first-timers take. You stay three nights in Srinagar and do Sonmarg and Gulmarg as day trips, so there is no packing and unpacking every morning. Then you move to Pahalgam for a night by the Lidder, and come back to Srinagar for a final night on a Dal Lake houseboat.

The pace is steady rather than rushed. The longest drive, Srinagar to Pahalgam, is broken up with stops at the Pampore saffron fields, the Awantipora ruins and a cricket bat workshop near Bijbehara.

You stay in standard 3-star hotels plus one night on a traditional houseboat, with breakfast and dinner every day, and the car and driver are with you for the whole trip. Gondola tickets, pony rides and local union cabs are paid on the spot, so keep a little aside for those.
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